Overview of bike and parts
Over the past few months I have pieced together a fixed gear bicycle based around a bamboo frame. Through the process of researching, collecting, and installing the parts I have learned a lot. Perhaps someone will need advice in putting together their own fixed gear bamboo bike, and I would like to share what I learned to help anyone else in a similar situation.
Here is my parts list, with associated cost.
Frame: 54 cm Zambike Bamboo road bike frame, purchased from Craigslist $260
Wheels: Weinmann DP-18 with Origin8 hubs, purchased from velomine, $105 + $17 shipping
Tires: 2 x Vredestein Rouleur Road Tire, Nashbar, 19.49 each
Tubes: 2 x Continental 700c Presta Valve Tube - 42mm 6.99 each
Rimtape: Nashbar cloth, Nashbar, 7
Fork: Nashbar Carbon road bike fork with 1 ⅛ inch aluminum steerer, purchased from Nashbar, $79.99
Headset: Cane Creek 40 purchased from Amazon, $43
Stem: FSA OS-99 titanium stem, purchased from Nashbar, $28
Handlebars: Profile Design Stoker 26 aluminum bullhorn bars, ebay. $20
Brake levers: 2 x TRP RL 970 carbon aero brake lever, Nashbar, $14 each
Brakes: Tektro calipers, craigslist, $30
Brake cables and housing: Shimano universal set, Amazon, $13
Saddle: Becoz Athletic Eco Saddle, Nashbar, 15
Seatpost: Pulled one off an old trek frame
Crankset: Miche Primato Advanced 165 mm x 48T, wiggle, $115
Bottom bracket: Shimano UN55 BB Square Taper Bottom Bracket (68x113mm), Amazon, 17
Chain: Izumi 1/8 Standard Track Chain Fixed Black Black, Wiggle, $13
Cog: Soma 17t track cog, Amazon, $24
Lockring: State bicycle lock ring, Amazon, $12
Pedals: Velo-orange track pedals, online forum, $10
Total cost: $891
Comments on cost
This cost does not include tools I needed to buy, nor parts I bought that did not fit. To me, the final price was reasonable, I could have spent a similar amount on a fixed gear from State Bicycle and got a similar quality bicycle. It could even be argued that mine is of higher quality than what I could have bought off the shelf with that money. However I made many purchases that took advantages of sales, discounts, and holiday promotions. On top of that I saved some money by buying used parts. Had I bought the items at MSRP the cost would have been much higher.
If I were to include time and tools into the cost, than it would be easy to argue that buying a pre-made fixed gear would have been more economical. A reasonable estimate for the total cost with tools would be 1300. The process of researching, shopping, and assembling the parts was very enjoyable for me. That can’t be measured, it is a subjective choice and I’m happy I made it. That doesn’t mean it is the right choice for you.
Lessons learned
There are a lot of things I wish I knew before going into this build, here I will share them.
-The recommended bottom bracket spindle size for the cranks I used was too narrow. The miche cranks called for a 107 mm spindle. When I tried to use a spindle with that length the left crank and chainring rubbed against the bike frame. I believe this is because the bamboo frames chainstays are thicker than they would be on a metallic frame, when the manufacturer decides which bottom bracket spindle to recommend they aren't considering exotic materialed frames like bamboo. Going with a 113 mm spindle, JIS tapered, allowed the cranks to clear the frame and still allowed me a great chainline.
-I wanted to mix it up a bit with the handlebars, I am used to drop bars and went with bullhorn for something new. The bar end aero brake levers were the perfect match, but they were not compatible with the first bullhorn bar I ordered. I did not notice that the levers were internally routed, meaning that the cable met with them inside of the bars, and holes were needed in the bars for the cables to exit and meet up with the calipers. If you buy brakes like mine, be sure you know if the cabling is external or internal and if your handlebars support either cabling method.
-When you buy a wheelset, make sure they have the proper spacing for your frame. I had to special request velomine to make the spacing wider on my rear dp-18 to fit my frame.
- A normal length seat post would not fit into my frame. Looking down the seat tube with a flashlight revealed a deformity that blocked the post from entering all the way. I attempted to file the abnormality down with a cylinder hone like this one but it wasn’t strong enough to do the job. Perhaps one like this would work but I was able to pull a short seatpost off another bike that worked.
-Making a crown race setter from a pipe was easy, satisfying, and worked well, using a hammer and screwdriver as a star nut press was frustrating and destructive.
And that's that, if you stumble across this page in your google searches I would love to know if it helped!
-Matt